Including all hoses, vacuum lines, and "perishables".
Approximate Price for all parts: $700
Why do this upgrade? I travel almost exlusively
in the summer. I pull a light boat to races but I often have to travel during
the hottest part of the day... 80-95 degrees on Friday and Sunday afternoons.
I am often in relatively heavy traffic. All this combined with the age and
my fan runs most of the time I drive. It appears that most of the hoses
were OEM on the coach. I have chosen to replace the core with 3/4 tubes
on 9/16 centers or, as some have say, go from 42 rows to 52 rows and
bigger tubes. Brace yourself cause this ain't cheap... core with labor for
a standard core is about $280, custom order a big-tube core $520. Labor
for the core rebuild is $160 either way at the local shop (included in the
This is really a two person job, minimum one person
doing the work and the other handing in tools, best to have someone strong
enough to help you muscle the core around. I tried the method on http://california.com/~eagle but was
not able to get that to work on mine. Sure, others say I am wrong but they
weren't here helping :-) - I spent more time trying to make it work than
I did after I decided to just drop the frame. I did it by dropping the frame
and all. When installing it was nice to have the radiator already buttoned
into the frame... jacking it up frame and all was easy. I replaced all of
the trans cooler and oil cooler lines, rubber gaskets and hoses including
domestic water heater pre-heater. I wanted to use the stainless oil lines
from JR but he was rallying so I settled for a rubber set from NAPA... I
have absolutely no patience :-(
Here is the new radiator core... notice the gold
tint to the coils... it must be real gold and explains the price! Obviously
it costs more since it is not a standard item. It was a tough call but the
extra insurance on my engine helped. It made the sucker really heavy...
really need the floor jack to get it in place.
I pulled the frame with the radiator and took the
time to sand, powerwash and paint. After all the work, it goes back in and
is hidden from almost all views. But I do feel better.
Here are the connections on the hot water tank.
I hadn't pulled the slack forward yet so the bottom hose is coiled a bit.
After changing the hoses, you can feel the engine coolant lines warm quickly
after the air works out of the system.
This picture is of the rusty engine before the
hoses were changed. With only 60,000 miles in 30 years this baby sat alot.
Probably the lack of heat and oil in the engine compartment caused this.